Charles Passy
Palm Beach Post Restaurant Critic
charles_passy@pbpost.com

Restaurant Review: The Station House, Lantana

Got lobster?

OK, that's not the official motto of Lantana's deservedly beloved Station House, but it might as well be. The homey, 13-year-old eatery is all about the lobster, whether you prefer the crustacean steamed, broiled or stuffed with crabmeat.

Fortunately, for the non-lobster lovers among us, there are other options, including fine seafood dishes and decent steaks. Add it up, and you've got a restaurant that hits its mark -- and keeps its prices respectably in line to boot.

Admittedly, the Station House is not going to win any awards for its décor. There's a slightly dated feel to the place -- not so much because it's designed to resemble an old train station, but more because it's looking like it could use a little sprucing up -- perhaps a fresh paint job or a new fish tank or two.

While, as the saying goes, you can't eat the scenery, you can eat just about anything on the Station House's menu (and drink from a small but attractively priced wine list).

Appetizers include some of the best baked, Italian-style clams -- Clams Oreganato ($7.95) -- we've enjoyed locally, with just enough tasty breading to complement the bivalves without overwhelming them. Other solid starters include a rich lobster bisque ($7.95) and a better-than-expected mini-platter of barbecued ribs ($10.95).

It seems practically a crime to visit the Station House and not order lobster, so the real question is what size (the restaurant has ones that weigh as much as 8 pounds!) and what style of preparation.

We opted for the twin lobsters -- each up to 1 1/4 pounds -- with one stuffed with crabmeat and the other steamed ($41.45). They were cooked just right, yielding that sweet meat that lobster lovers crave; the crabmeat stuffing is well worth the surcharge, too. As with all the entrees, the lobsters come with a top-of-the-line house salad, which is served family style for the table.

Lobster also made an appearance in Station House's Zuppa di Pesce ($30.95), the traditional Italian seafood stew served over pasta.

It would be hard to imagine a version of this dish that included more selections -- the bowl literally runneth over with clams, mussels, calamari and fish.

The bounty was somewhat spoiled by the fact that the linguini was a bit overcooked. Still, the portion was so large that we got a lunch -- and then some -- out of what we took home.

Station House also serves fish -- from Florida grouper to yellowfin tuna to Norwegian salmon -- in more straightforward presentations. We went with the broiled Chilean sea bass ($25.95), which proved firm and flavorful. (And we couldn't resist adding a crabmeat crust for $3.) Oh, and for landlubbers, there's that steak menu: Our 16-ounce bone-in ribeye ($26.95) wasn't on par with what you'd find in the best steakhouse, but it was a good -- and fairly priced -- piece of beef.

Dessert isn't taken for granted, either. The apple pie ($5.75) is a hearty pleasure, and the chocolate decadence ($5.50) is properly sinful. But you can pass on an uninspired tiramisu ($6.25).

If you're beginning to get the impression that Station House is all about respecting the customer, then the restaurant's wait staff will seal the deal. There's a marvelous efficiency -- and marvelous sense of courtesy -- to the dining experience here. Servers know their way around the menu. Dishes arrive in prompt fashion. We know a few fancier restaurants that could learn a thing or two from the Station House.

Which explains why there's always such a line at this Lantana eatery. Fortunately, they do take reservations.